Mexico 2-0 South Africa
by Asif Burhan
at Estadio Azteca, Mexico City

“SING and don’t cry” go the lyrics of the traditional Mexican song Cielito Lindo (Lovely Sweet One) and no words could have better described a tumultuous time in Mexico City as the 23rd Fifa World Cup began with drama and controversy, both on and off the field.

Most of the crying came outside the Estadio Azteca, where days of protests from those who have lost loved ones in the state’s ongoing war on drugs created an atmosphere of tension and imminent lockdown on the streets of Mexico City.

Many of the areas around the main square were blocked off by an overwhelming police presence as construction continued on the city’s designated Fifa Fan Festival in the gigantic Plaza de la Constitucion, better known as Zocalo.

Two days before the match, the entire train line running to the stadium had to be suspended after demonstrators blocked the line around the three stations closest to the Azteca. More protests were promised ahead of the opening match of the tournament.

While that light railway was operational before the game, the metro running to it was not, with several of the city’s central stations inexplicably closed. Without any information or announcements forthcoming, fans had to work out their own routes to the stadium, with many forced to walk.

On the main road to the Azteca, the Calzada de Tlalpan, thousands of riot police created a menacing barricade for protestors who nevertheless still marched towards the stadium. Clashes broke out as demonstrators attempted to breach the ring of state-sanctioned steel.

Within it, in stark contrast, fans from all over the world descended upon the legendary stadium, hosting the opening ceremony of the Fifa World Cup for the third time in 56 years. Here, there was nothing but singing. With the cheapest general sale tickets to the game setting you back well over £1,000 and beers in the stadium priced at nearly £13, it was not a crowd of working-class Mexicans.

A glittering opening ceremony featured the contrasting talents of Shakira, Burna Boy and Andrea Bocelli. After the smoke from the pyrotechnics had subsided, co-hosts Mexico matched the great expectations of their supporters by defeating South Africa 2-0 in front of over 80,000 spectators.

On the pitch there was still controversy. After Julian Quinones gave Mexico a deserved early lead, two South Africans and one home player were shown straight red cards by Brazilian referee Wilton Sampaio.

A second goal midway through the second half by Raul Jimenez added gloss to the result and sent the locals home roaring as loud as the thunderclouds developing over the mountains in the distance.

That was until the spectators discovered the light railway had once more been suspended, forcing them — and this reporter — to queue for over an hour in the persistent rain. “Y canta y no llores” indeed.